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Thread: Team Moon Single Exhaust Installation Guide

  1. #1
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    Default Team Moon Single Exhaust Installation Guide

    I got my Team Moon stainless steel single today, and I installed it on my car today. Installation time was about two hours from the time I gathered the tools until the time everything was cleaned up. Unfortunately, I did not take any pictures, but I decided to make a little write up that might be helpful to anyone who searches in the future. Just kidding, I know no one ever searches on Internet forums. Anyway, here is an installation guide using the "bumper removal method." Obviously, even though this is specific to the Team Moon, it should be a decent guide to any aftermarket exhaust on the Spyder.

    Team Moon Single Installation Guide

    Tools Needed:

    Socket wrench
    10mm socket
    14mm socket
    17mm socket or wrench
    Extension
    Large flathead screwdriver
    Philips screwdriver (to remove license plate)
    Spray on lubricant (recommended)
    Breaker bar or length of pipe (recommended)
    Shears (if you plan to retain the diaper)

    Removal Procedure

    Get the vehical safely in the air. While it isn't completely necessary to lift the vehicle if you remove the bumper, I feel it aids in the procedure.

    Remove the plastic "diaper" splash guard under the stock exhaust. There are three 10mm screws directly underneath the rear bumper, as well as two 10mm bolts on the edge of the diaper nearest the center of the car.

    Open the hood, and remove the tail light housing. This is accomplished by removing the two 10mm screws per housing. The edge of the tail light closest to the wheel also has a plastic snap that simply pops out when you pull. It isn't necessary to undo the light's wiring. Just move it out of the way so you have access to the rear bumper screws hidden underneath the light.

    Remove the license plate.

    Remove the rear bumper cover. There are two 10mm screws under each tail light housing. There are five plastic rivet type snaps where the bumper cover meets the hood. These are removed by placing a flathead screwdriver under the top piece of plastic and prying them up. Be careful not to damage them, as they are relatively fragile. Another three plastic rivet type snaps are located underneath the car where the bumper cover meets the actual bumper. There are two 10mm screws on the bottom of the bumper cover behind each wheel. There is one 10mm bolt in each wheel well near where the bumper cover meets the corner panel. Pull the bumper cover free to where you can undo the license plate lights by twisting them and pulling them out. Place the bumper cover out of the way being careful not to scratch it.

    Remove the two thin supports that run between the bumper and the top of the engine compartment. They are held on by one 10mm bolt on the bottom and one 10mm nut on the top.

    Remove the rear heatshield. There are two 10mm bolts on the bottom, one 10mm bolt on the left side, one 10mm nut on the top slightly off center, and one 10mm bolt on the right side facing down.

    Now the exhaust is exposed and ready to be removed. Remove the two 14mm bolts and springs that connect the muffler section to the cat section of the exhaust. It will be a good idea to spray them down with a lubricant/penetrant like PB Blaster or Liquid wrench. Mine were on there pretty tightly, and they took quite a bit of effort to remove, so I slipped a length of pipe over my ratchet and went to town. After these bolts are removed, all that connects the exhaust to the car is three rubber hangers. One is located near the exhaust time, and there is one on either side of the muffler. Remove these using a large flatehead screwdriver. I believe it is easiest to remove them so that the hangers remain on the exhaust, rather than on the car. Slip the screwdriver through the hanger near the bracket you wish to remove it from, and pry against the bracket, pulling the hanger away. This may be difficult. After all three hangers are removed, maneuver the exhaust out of the hole between the bumper and the exngine compartment frame. You will not need to remove the sway bar if you do it correctly.

    Installation Procedure

    Use the flathead screwdriver to pull the hangers off the stock exhaust, and place them on the new exhaust. The Team Moon only requires two hangers, rather than three.

    Hang the new exhaust in place, making sure the hangers are securely on the brackets.

    Team Moon provides two new bolts, four flat washers, two lock washers and two nuts to replace the stock 14mm bolts and spring assemblies that connect the muffler to the cat The bolts remain 14mm, however the nuts are 17mm. Inspect the donut gasket, and then put the supplied hardware in place. Tighten it down only after both nuts and bolts are through their holes.

    Replace the heatshield. It is held on by four 10mm bolts and one 10mm nut. Make sure the license plate lights come up between the headshield and the bumper. If they were knocked into the muffler compartment, and you put the heatshield back on, you will have to remove it and make sure they are in place.

    Replace the two thin supports. They are held on by one 10mm bolt and one 10mm each.

    Replace the bumper. First put the license plate lights in their sockets. The place the eight plastic rivet type snaps in their holes and snap them in place. Replace the two screws under each tail light house, the two screws behind each wheel, and the one screw in each wheel well.

    Replace the tail light housings by snapping them in, and then replacing the two screws each.

    Use the shears to modify the diaper to fit with the new exhaust, or discard.

    Enjoy!

  2. #2
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    YAY!

    I've had this exhaust sitting in the garge ready to install for over a year now. Hopefully this will be enough to get me off my lazy ass and install it.
    2003 MR-2 green 5speed with Sportivo kit
    2002 SVT Focus - red

  3. #3
    Platinum Contributor Kevin Beane's Avatar
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    Very nice write-up. There's one Spydermagazine, too. Click on Articles, then scroll down and click on Team Moon Exhaust. Pictures are included.

  4. #4
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    Originally posted by Beanie
    Very nice write-up. There's one Spydermagazine, too. Click on Articles, then scroll down and click on Team Moon Exhaust. Pictures are included.
    I love your new avatar!
    Sexy Silver Pic's...

    http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2285518/1

    Devs keyhole covers, Greggs pull tab cover, Greggs padded center armrest, door wind deflectors, padded door armrest, small antenna, body kit, newer style tails, decatted at 1500 miles

  5. #5
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    Originally posted by Beanie
    Very nice write-up. There's one Spydermagazine, too. Click on Articles, then scroll down and click on Team Moon Exhaust. Pictures are included.
    Thank you. I read both of the write ups on www.spydermagazine.com, and they used the method where you remove the cat section of the exhaust, and pull the muffler out through the bottom. Personally, I think removing the bumper is much easier, as you don't have to worry about touching the header studs or nuts, the O2 sensor or the rear sway bar. Also, it seems with the bumper off, you have an easier time accessing the top hangers for the exhaust. Of course, opinions vary. I hope my write up helps people who are considering removing their rear bumper.

  6. #6
    Platinum Contributor Kevin Beane's Avatar
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    Removing the bumper: I have done that quite a few times. Be careful putting it back on (lining things up properly) to avoid gaps.

    Re: my avatar: Wait 'till you see the next one. I havn't taken the picture yet, but know what it is going to be.

  7. #7
    Spyderchat Enthusiast Huske's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by zoophagy View Post
    I decided to make a little write up that might be helpful to anyone who searches in the future. Just kidding, I know no one ever searches on Internet forums.
    A few years later this post is still helpful

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